what we're pouring

  • Community Coffee's Coffee & Chicory

    Community

    Due to a coffee shortage during the Civil War, New Orleanians began extending their coffee supply by adding chicory, the root of the endive plant, roasted and ground. The result was a bittersweet, heavy-bodied brew. Coffee and chicory remains a New Orleans favorite today.

    It's the featurted blend at Ralph’s on the Park, BACCO, and Red Fish Grill in New Orleans.

  • Siduri Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2006Siduri

    "We have been sourcing grapes from the Willamette Valley for a dozen years now but honestly don't recall a vintage like 2006. Yields were high - potentially too high for the grapes to fully ripen - but ripen they did. In fact, there’s a group of folks that think the 2006 Oregon Pinots are too ripe, too immediately accessible. We don’t agree with that assessment. Perhaps 2003 seemed too ripe to us, but in 2006 the high yields slowed the grapes’ sugar accumulation keeping it in-line with flavor development. This was the best of both worlds with the only potential downside being a dilution of flavors due to the higher yields. To combat this we bled off a significant portion of juice, costing us a great deal of money but making a significantly better wine. The 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is one of the results of this superb growing season and strict winemaking regime."
    --winemakers' notes

  • William Fèvre Chablis 2006Fevre_3

    "A very typical pale hue with a glint of green. It has an attractive and expressive minerality, steely yet with a presence of ripe, white fruits wrapped around this harder core, with a leafy, nettly outer wrapping. Fine structure, ripe fruits, nicely rounded out but with a little backbone of grip and very decent acidity. A little lacking in substance and character perhaps, especially through the midpalate, and the 2005 was undeniably superior. But good, and a worthy buy nevertheless."
    --The Winedoctor

  • Bellevalle_2

    2006 Pinot Gris, Belle Vallée Cellars

    "Crisp, clean and refreshing with lively and tangy flavors leaving you with a juicy mouthful of peaches and pears."

    Belle Vallée (Beautiful Valley) Cellars is located in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Nestled between two mountain ranges, the cool climate and terrain of this western Oregon valley is a prime growing area for the Pinot Noir Grape. In the 1980's Oregon's wineries put the world on notice that great Pinot can come from the Willamette Valley appellation.

  • Álvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses 2005Alvaro

    "2004 was a superb vintage in Priorat and the three entries from Alvaro Palacios are stunning. If I were a young wine enthusiast with limited discretionary income, I would surely buy a case of the 2004 Les Terrasses. It is a blend of 60% Carignan, 30% Grenache, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for one year in a combination of used French and American oak. It is opaque purple in color with a knockout nose of kirsch, blueberry, licorice and minerals. On the palate there are layers of sweet, ripe black fruits, a supple texture, and light, soft tannins to support several more years of bottle aging."
    --Wine Advocate

  • Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 2005Palliser

    "Far and away the best Palliser Pinot Noir we’ve ever reviewed, the 2005 boasts complex, savory aromas and flavors that match ripe black cherry and plum fruit with peppery-herbal notes and hints of smoke, meat and brown sugar. The creamy, supple tannins are balanced by crisp acids and concentrated fruit on the long finish."
    --Wine Enthusiast

    • Chateau de Fonsalette, Côtes du Rhône, 2004

      "Loved the seductiveness of the 2004 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone with its lush black cherry, herbal, and dusty soil notes. It is ripe, medium-bodied, elegant, pure, and well-balanced." Wine SpectatorFonsalette_2

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July 03, 2008

Karen Abbott, author of "Sin in the Second City"

Karen Abbott never seems to tire of talking about pimps, prostitutes, and panders.

Abbottpic OK, so that may be an unfair way to put it; after all, I'm the one who raises the subject as we sit down to dinner at La Petite Grocery on Magazine Street in New Orleans. Abbott is in town to promote her book, Sin in the Second City: Madams, Ministers, Playboys, and the Battle for America's Soul, recently released in paperback.  Tom Lowenburg and Judith Lafitte of Octavia Books, the site of Abbott's reading and book-signing earlier in the day, enthusiastically recommended the restaurant, which I have been eager to try out. 

Sin in the Second City is a critical and publishing success. USA Today wrote that "Karen Abbott has pioneered sizzle history with...this satisfyingly lurid tale."  The Wall Street Journal called Sin in the Second City "an immensely readable book." Janet Maslin praised it in the daily New York Times and Ada Calhoun, writing in the Sunday New York Times Book Review, called it "a lush love letter to the underworld" with a "wealth of details."

The quality of the book accounts for this critical reception; and yet, as the author rightly observes, many excellent books fail to get a wide readership because they are inadequately promoted.  Abbott was determined to give her book a fair chance: she spent an extraordinary amount of time and her own money traveling in support of the book when it was first released.  One casualty of the time away from home: her parrots feel neglected, especially "Poe," the elder of the pair. As we peruse the menu, Abbott jokes that she'll not order poultry out of sympathy for Poe's hurt feelings.  I have my eye on the fish, so I'm relieved that she doesn't have a sensitive goldfish at home.

Poe is named after Edgar Allan Poe, the writer who many Philadelphians (Abbott grew up there) claim as one of their own—Poe wrote much of his better work there—at least as vigorously as do the denizens of Baltimore, where Poe died and is buried.  Abbott's younger parrot is "Dexter," after Pete Dexter, the novelist and one-time columnist for the Philadelphia Daily News.  It turns out that Abbott may be an even bigger fan of Dexter's work than I am—and that's saying quite a lot—and she's had the pleasure of meeting and interviewing the writer.Abbott_2

I arrived at Abbott's reading only as it was breaking up, yet I can tell she's an enthusiastic promoter of her creation.  She says it's easy to be so: "I'm amazed by the stories, and I hope others will be, too."  And the stories are amazing.  Sin in the Second City recounts the rise and fall of the Everleigh Club, the most expensive and exclusive bordello in Chicago—probably, in the world—from its opening in February 1900 until it was shuttered in October 1911. The book is engrossing for its social history as much as for the character study of the Everleigh's founders, the spinster sisters Minna and Ada Everleigh.  The narrative is also packed with irresistible vignettes about the "sporting girls," as they were commonly known a century ago, and their customers.

My favorite patron of the club is "Uncle Ned," whose annual holiday gift to himself was to rent out the club's Music Room and work out an unusual kink: he "thrust his bare feet into buckets of ice, downed a tall glass of sarsaparilla, and ordered the girls to circle him and sing 'Jingle Bells.'" Uncle Ned accompanied his chorus with a tambourine and repeatedly shouted, "Let's all go for an old-fashioned sleigh ride...whee! "  While doubtless exploitative and mildly sadistic—Minna told Ada that these kind of antics were "more tiring than what the girls lose their social standing over"—these practices at the Everleigh were a lot less harmful than what went on elsewhere in the South Side Levee district.

Our starters arrive.  Abbott has opted for a salad of Romaine Hearts with Shaved Peccorino and Creamy Lemon Dressing. I'm having an exotic variation of one of my favorite appetizers: Water Buffalo Mozzarella and Local Heirloom Tomatoes with Herbs.

As entertaining as the whorehouse shenanigans are, the politics of the era are at least as intriguing.  The machinations of the reformers and how they manipulated the public, Abbott says, captivated her interest as much what went on in the Everleigh Club: these people in Chicago changed American history.  Abbott recounts how the so-called reformers, really just a handful of men in the beginning, were "so effective at fear and gloom and doom" with the books they put out conflating white slavery with prostitution.

Musicroom_3Obviously, there were some cases of white slavery: unwitting and unwilling young women tricked into and trapped by the prostitution business, often violently so.  And yet it is just as clear that the larger part of the sex industry relied on a supply of workers driven there by economic opportunity and necessity, and by the steady demand from men willing to pay for sex.  The luxurious Everleigh Club had no part in the violence of white slavery: its workers were paid extremely well, pampered, and even educated at the sister-madams' insistence.

Our entrees arrive—Abbott has ordered the Grilled Hanger Steak with Truffle Aioli, Caramelized Onions and Fries, and I chose the Redfish Court Bouillion and Crabmeat over Louisiana Popcorn Rice—and it seems like natural dinner conversation to ask her about her view on prostitution and whether it is exploitative or should be legalized. Of course it's exploitative, she says, but it is a social phenomenon that isn't going to disappear and it should be legalized.  If the state legalizes prostitution, then it can regulate it, tax it, and monitor the health of sex workers.

Sin in the Second City strikes me as obvious Hollywood bait, so I ask if there are any plans for an adaptation.  The answer is Yes, and Abbott tells me the name of the major industry figure who owns the option on the book—and makes me pledge to not repeat it yet.  Of course I agree to keep the secret: like a New Orleans madEverleighclubam once said, "With discretion, I [get] a better class of clientele."  All I will spill at this time is news that this producer has a lot of clout and readers will recognize his work, so there is a better than usual chance that an adaptation will be forthcoming. (I'd love to see Jack Nicholson as Uncle Ned.)

Abbott's work-in-progress is a book about Gypsy Rose Lee, the famous actress, stripper, and writer.  Just as Sin in the Second City is not merely a biography of the Everleigh sisters or a history of their whorehouse, the Gypsy Rose Lee project is not a straight biography.  Instead, the book largely focuses on the intersection of Gypsy Lee's life and the 1939-40 New York World's Fair, where she was a headliner. Abbott says it was a bizarre moment in history: America was not yet at war but many other countries had already fallen to Germany and Japan.  The fair was supposed to be about optimism in the future, yet there was a cloud over Europe and Asia. New York City itself was undergoing significant changes with the decline of Tammany Hall and the rise of Mayor LaGuardia.  It was a pregnant time for gangster society and literary culture as well.  When she completes the current book tour, Abbott will return to New York for more research into this forthcoming addition to "sizzle history."

As we leave the restaurant, I ask Abbott to sign my copy of Sin in the Second City.  Her inscription reads: "For Marshal, who would have gotten the Prince Henry treatment" [at the Everleigh Club].  See the chapter titled "Knowing Your Balzac" to learn why that makes me smile.

Visit the Sin in the Second City website to learn more Karen Abbott and her book, and check out the Page 69 Test page for Sin in the Second City.

© Marshal Zeringue

where we're dining

  • Ralph's In 1860, a French immigrant whose second occupation was tending cattle in City Park, constructed our historic building as a coffeehouse and concession stand for City Park. Over the last two centuries, the building has passed through the hands of some of New Orleans most prominent restaurateurs.

    We are honored to carry on the tradition of fine food, fun and revelry that this historic location demands, and it is a pleasure to have you as our guest!

    Ralph's On the Park
    900 City Park Avenue
    New Orleans, LA 70119

    ....

  • Frenchroomlogo_2 The French Room, which earned Gourmet magazine’s top ranking for the Dallas/Fort Worth region for three consecutive years, features a menu rich in fresh seasonal ingredients and a wine list that recently earned Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. Under the direction of Executive Chef Jason Weaver, The French Room has taken classic techniques and adapted them to ever-evolving American tastes. Guests of this rococo restaurant enjoy modern American cuisine prepared using classical French cooking techniques.

    The French Room at The Adolphus
    1321 Commerce Street
    Dallas, TX 75202

    ....

  • Rosewoodmansion_6

    The Mansion Restaurant’s new look is highlighted by sleek furnishings, contemporary fixtures and vibrant artwork featuring Texas artists. In the main dining room, new modern lighting elements and honey-colored walls contribute to the warm ambiance. At the restaurant’s entrance, two signature grape leaf columns, original to the Sheppard King home, have been enhanced with a white antique finish and gold leaf accents. Dark Macassar ebony wood tables shine brilliantly, creating a reflection of the original wood-carved ceiling that now glistens with a pearlized finish. In the veranda, celadon green fabrics flow as elegant rattan chairs by Laura Kirar adorn smooth wooden tables. The veranda’s palladium windows look out to the picturesque patio, which now boasts plush furnishings and custom-made lanterns from San Miguel de Allende hanging from the trees.

    Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek
    2821 Turtle Creek Blvd
    Dallas, TX 75219

    ....

  • Abacuslogo_2

    Since its opening in 1999, Abacus has received numerous accolades including Mobil Four-Stars, AAA Four Diamonds, and Five Stars from The Dallas Morning News.

    Chef Kent Rathbun was nominated in 2000, 2002, 2003 and 2004 by the James Beard Foundation for Best Chef: Southwest.

    Abacus Restaurant
    4511 McKinney Avenue
    Dallas, Texas

    ....

  • Upperlinelogo_7

    "Upperline could be mistaken for a gallery spotlighting local artists. Its iconic dishes include shrimp rémoulade on a thick slice of fried green tomato (proprietor JoAnn Clevenger invented this now widespread dish), roasted duck sauced with garlic and port or with ginger and peaches, and crawfish enchiladas in an intensely seasoned cream sauce. Chef Ken Smith cooks like a Louisiana patriot..."Gayot.com

    Upperline Restaurant
    1413 Upperline Street
    New Orleans, Louisiana

    ....

  • GalatoiresThe grand dame of New Orleans' old-line restaurants, Galatoire’s has remained committed to culinary excellence for more than a century. Under the guidance of the fourth generation of family ownership, it is her time-honored customs that still bind this renowned restaurant. Above all others, her rich tradition of serving authentic French Creole cuisine at a level that raises consistency to an art form. It is often said that the beauty of Galatoire’s is that things never change. Even after 100 years, ageless New Orleans favorites grace her menu just as they did in 1905.

    Galatoire's Restaurant
    209 Bourbon Street
    New Orleans, Louisiana

    ....

  • An exceptional New Orleans find dining experience awaits you at The Ritz-Carlton's signature restaurant locRitz3_2ated on the third floor lobby level of the hotel. Mélange restaurant is a mixture of the most renowned dishes from New Orleans' most infamous restaurants accented by some of the chef's own culinary creations amidst the backdrop of jazz.

    On Trois, formerly the Lobby Lounge, is characterized by elegant turn-of-the-century antiques.  During the day, the lounge offers a refined setting for Afternoon Tea and at night, guests can order wine and champagne by-the-glass.

    Mélange & On Trois
    The Ritz-Carlton

    921 Canal Street
    New Orleans, LA

    .

  • Herbsaint "Here is where dark, rouxy gumbos find common ground with lemony gnocchi seared in olive oil, where small plates of house-made spaghetti come outfitted with fried poached eggs, where parmesan beignets stand in for croutons on carefully composed spinach salads, and steamy piles of dirty rice escort crisp confit duck legs. In short, Herbsaint is where New Orleans, after almost three centuries of braising in European influences, finally puts its definitive stamp on the bistro-trattoria."
    --Gourmet Magazine

    Herbsaint
    701 St. Charles Avenue
    New Orleans, Louisiana